Machenike F1
Machenike F1 Input lag comparison
| # | Connection | Mode | LatencyAverage (ms) | Polling RateMedian (Hz) | Jitter | OSBuild ver. | FWTester ver. | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Latency P82 | ||||||||
1 | Dongle | XInput | 2.27 1.83 | 5940.82 | 0.47 0.43 | Win 11 10.0.26200 | 1.34 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 ✓ Selected 1.06 ms 1.83 ms 3.45 ms 0.43 ms 5940.82 Hz | ||||||||
2 | Dongle | XInput | 1.83 2.01 | 2808.99 | 0.29 0.35 | Win 11 10.0.26100 | 1.40 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 1.3 ms 2.01 ms 3.11 ms 0.35 ms 2808.99 Hz | ||||||||
3 | Cable | XInput | 1.17 1.32 | 3278.69 | 0.08 0.21 | Win 11 10.0.26100 | 1.40 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 0.86 ms 1.32 ms 1.9 ms 0.21 ms 3278.69 Hz | ||||||||
4 | Cable | XInput | 1.27 1.59 | 7790.11 | 0.22 0.27 | Win 11 10.0.26200 | 1.34 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 ✓ Selected 1.11 ms 1.59 ms 2.77 ms 0.27 ms 7790.11 Hz | ||||||||
5 | Cable | Switch | 21.4 22.4 | 124.98 | 2.98 4.73 | Win 11 10.0.26200 | 1.34 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 13.37 ms 22.42 ms 32.35 ms 4.73 ms 124.98 Hz | ||||||||
6 | Cable | Switch | 22.0 23.2 | 125 | 3.35 5.99 | Win 11 10.0.26100 | 1.40 5.2.3.6 | |
Stick LatencyP82 15.13 ms 23.23 ms 39.83 ms 5.99 ms 125 Hz |
Latency
Our visualization focuses on Average Latency, presented as vertical bars to make comparing performance across different connection modes (Wired, Bluetooth, Dongle) instant and intuitive.
The chart differentiates between:
- Button Latency: How quickly the game registers a physical button press.
- Stick Latency: The delay in registering joystick movement (tested at 99% deflection).
Visualizing Stability (Jitter)
You may notice that the top portion of some bars is semi-transparent or "faded". This represents Jitter (instability):
- Solid Bar: Represents the stable, consistent average latency.
- Faded Top: Indicates the variance. A larger transparent area means higher jitter, implying the controller's response time fluctuates. A solid bar with little to no fading indicates a highly stable connection.
Deep Dive: Click the arrow to reveal Probability Distribution Charts. These show the exact breakdown of every input tested, displaying Probability (%) on the Y-axis and Latency (ms) on the X-axis.
Polling Rate vs. Latency
It is crucial to understand that Polling Rate and Latency are measured using two entirely different methodologies on our site:
- Latency (ms) is measured by the Prometheus 82 hardware. It captures the physical movement of the stick or button via hardware interrupts with microsecond precision. This is the "real-world" delay.
- Polling Rate (Hz) is measured via a Software Tool. It shows how often the OS receives reports from the USB stack.
Common Myth: A higher polling rate (like 8000 Hz) does not automatically guarantee lower latency if the controller's internal processing is slow. Conversely, a high polling rate on a chart might show fluctuations (e.g., 7800Hz instead of 8000Hz) due to OS jitter or CPU scheduling, which does not necessarily impact the hardware latency measured by the P82.
To test your own gamepad's polling rate, you can use our tool: Download Polling Rate Tester.
Testing Methods
Gamepadla ensures data integrity by combining three distinct testing methodologies:
-
Prometheus 82 (P82): Our gold standard. A custom-built hardware device that physically actuates buttons and sticks. It uses high-speed hardware interrupts to capture events, making it independent of the controller's polling rate. It provides an error margin of only ±1ms for buttons and sticks. View on GitHub.
-
GPDL Tester: An electrical monitoring tool for highly accurate button latency. While P82 simulates human-like mechanical movement, GPDL focuses on the electrical signal speed. View on GitHub.
-
Software Polling Test: A pure software diagnostic to check communication frequency. We use this to verify if a controller actually reaches its advertised specs (e.g., 1000Hz or 8000Hz) at the OS level. Download Software.
Note: By comparing hardware-level latency (P82) with software-level reports (Polling Test), we can identify if a controller has "fake" high polling rates or poorly optimized firmware.
Stick test of Machenike F1
Stick test results for Machenike F1 gamepad, by John Punch
Comment: The asymmetry test is worse than in reality due to the peculiarities of the stick's structure.
Errors Panel
Inner Deadzone
The Inner Deadzone is the area around the center of the stick where small movements are not registered. This helps prevent stick drift or accidental inputs, but if the deadzone is too large, it can make aiming less precise, especially in games requiring fine control. We evaluate the Inner Deadzone based on how much you need to move the stick before it responds—the less movement required, the better.
The Machenike F1 has no Inner Deadzone. The stick responds immediately to even the slightest movement, which is excellent for aiming accuracy and micro-control. This makes it a great choice for precision-heavy games like first-person shooters (e.g., Valorant or Apex Legends).
For comparison, many budget gamepads often have a moderate to large Inner Deadzone, while premium controllers typically aim for a slight or no deadzone for better precision.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Inner Deadzone works.
Outer Deadzone
The Outer Deadzone is the area near the edge of the stick’s range where further movement isn’t registered. This can make the stick feel less responsive at full tilt, affecting actions like quick turns or maximum speed in games. We evaluate the Outer Deadzone based on how much 'lost' range there is—the smaller the deadzone, the better, as it allows full use of the stick’s range for more precise control.
The Machenike F1 has a slight Outer Deadzone (0.4 mm). There’s a portion of the stick’s range that isn’t registered, but it’s minimal and unlikely to affect gameplay noticeably.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have moderate to large Outer Deadzones, while premium controllers strive for minimal or no deadzone to maximize control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Outer Deadzone works.
Stick Asymmetry
Stick Asymmetry measures the consistency of the joystick's response across different directions. Ideally, if you physically deflect the stick by 80% from the center, the software should report an 80% deflection regardless of the direction. A high asymmetry score indicates a problem where for the same physical movement, the reported coordinates are inconsistent—for example, 60% in one direction and 90% in another. This creates an uneven, often 'egg-shaped,' response zone, which negatively impacts aiming and control predictability.
For the Machenike F1, the Stick Asymmetry is 5.1% for the left stick and 8.9% for the right stick. Higher values can lead to noticeable inconsistencies, potentially impacting aiming or movement in games.
Testing Methodology: It's crucial to note that this test is performed at partial stick deflection (~80%), using special physical limiters (clips). Testing at 100% deflection often hides asymmetries because the controller's output is clamped at the maximum value, artificially 'smoothing' the resulting shape. Our method reveals the true performance of the stick in the ranges most critical for gameplay. This precise approach was also utilized by Linus Tech Tips in their controller review.
For comparison, many budget gamepads show asymmetry levels above 30%, while high-end controllers typically stay below 10% for better uniformity.
Learn more about how different gamepads perform in the Stick Asymmetry test and how to conduct such a test in this article. You can learn how to test joystick asymmetry yourself from this video.
Circle Error
Circle Error evaluates how closely the stick’s movement follows a perfect circle. A high Circle Error means the path is more square-like, which can cause inconsistent speeds when moving diagonally—your character might move faster or slower than expected. The lower the percentage, the better, as it ensures smooth, uniform movement in all directions.
For the Machenike F1, the Circle Error is 0.2% for the left stick and 0.2% for the right stick. This is an excellent result, providing smooth, natural diagonal movement similar to premium controllers.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have Circle Errors above 12%, resulting in 'square' feeling sticks, while high-quality ones aim for under 8% for better smoothness.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Circle Error impacts performance.
Resolution (Stick Bitness)
Stick Bitness measures the precision of the joystick’s analog input, similar to bit depth in audio. Higher bitness means more distinct positions the stick can register, leading to smoother and more accurate control. Lower bitness can result in 'stepping' or less fluid movement, especially noticeable in slow, precise actions like aiming.
The Machenike F1 has 12.0 bits on both sticks.
Note: Recorded with an older version before True Bitness.
This corresponds to a measured Step Resolution of 0.00050 on the left stick and 0.00050 on the right, with about 2,000 SFC on the left stick and 2,000 SFC on the right.
For comparison, many budget gamepads have around 8 bits, while premium ones often exceed 10 bits for superior accuracy.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Stick Bitness affects control. It is important to note that the video specifies the resolution of the stick, not the bit depth; the higher the bit depth, the higher the resolution.
Center Error (Stick Centering)
Center Error (also referred to as Stick Centering) measures how accurately the joystick returns to its neutral (center) position after you release it. A low Center Error prevents stick drift—a common issue where your character or camera moves slightly in a game, even when you're not touching the stick. The lower the percentage, the better the centering, and the less likely you are to experience drift.
For the Machenike F1, the Center Error is 1.3% for the left joystick and 4.2% for the right stick. This is a poor result. High center error indicates that the sticks do not reliably return to neutral, which will likely cause stick drift unless a significant inner deadzone is applied.
This test methodology intentionally employs a more rigorous approach by implementing small-angle deflection and release, which produces the most challenging conditions for stick re-centering. This technique differs from the conventional maximum-deflection method where the stick is pulled to its full range and released, as small-angle deflection better simulates the micro-adjustments typically executed during actual gameplay scenarios, providing more representative data on potential stick drift occurrence during normal use.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Center Error works.
Cardinal Snapping
Cardinal Snapping (sometimes referred to as Axis Magnet) is a form of stick processing where the controller's output artificially 'snaps' or clings to the cardinal (horizontal and vertical) axes when the stick passes close to them. While this can make pure horizontal or vertical movements feel perfectly straight, it distorts the natural movement path and makes diagonal aiming or fine steering less predictable.
The Machenike F1 shows no Cardinal Snapping. This means the stick does not artificially cling to the horizontal or vertical axes, preserving your real movement path for consistent aiming and natural analog control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Cardinal Snapping affects stick behavior.
Disclaimer
We tested the Machenike F1 gamepad using a single unit, so keep in mind that other units of this model might perform slightly better or worse. In most cases, these differences are minor and shouldn’t affect your experience significantly. The results were obtained with the Stick Tracer program, and some values might vary if you use different software or testing methods.
Testing conditions, such as the gamepad’s firmware version (FW: 1.28) or connection type, can also influence the results. If you have this gamepad, we’d love for you to share your own test results! This will help us build a more comprehensive picture of the Machenike F1’s performance across different units.
Full test results can be viewed on the test page.
Stick test results for Machenike F1 gamepad, by John Punch
Comment: The asymmetry test is worse than in reality due to the peculiarities of the stick's structure.
Errors Panel
Inner Deadzone
The Inner Deadzone is the area around the center of the stick where small movements are not registered. This helps prevent stick drift or accidental inputs, but if the deadzone is too large, it can make aiming less precise, especially in games requiring fine control. We evaluate the Inner Deadzone based on how much you need to move the stick before it responds—the less movement required, the better.
The Machenike F1 has no Inner Deadzone. The stick responds immediately to even the slightest movement, which is excellent for aiming accuracy and micro-control. This makes it a great choice for precision-heavy games like first-person shooters (e.g., Valorant or Apex Legends).
For comparison, many budget gamepads often have a moderate to large Inner Deadzone, while premium controllers typically aim for a slight or no deadzone for better precision.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Inner Deadzone works.
Outer Deadzone
The Outer Deadzone is the area near the edge of the stick’s range where further movement isn’t registered. This can make the stick feel less responsive at full tilt, affecting actions like quick turns or maximum speed in games. We evaluate the Outer Deadzone based on how much 'lost' range there is—the smaller the deadzone, the better, as it allows full use of the stick’s range for more precise control.
The Machenike F1 has a slight Outer Deadzone (0.4 mm). There’s a portion of the stick’s range that isn’t registered, but it’s minimal and unlikely to affect gameplay noticeably.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have moderate to large Outer Deadzones, while premium controllers strive for minimal or no deadzone to maximize control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Outer Deadzone works.
Stick Asymmetry
Stick Asymmetry measures the consistency of the joystick's response across different directions. Ideally, if you physically deflect the stick by 80% from the center, the software should report an 80% deflection regardless of the direction. A high asymmetry score indicates a problem where for the same physical movement, the reported coordinates are inconsistent—for example, 60% in one direction and 90% in another. This creates an uneven, often 'egg-shaped,' response zone, which negatively impacts aiming and control predictability.
For the Machenike F1, the Stick Asymmetry is 4.5% for the left stick and 7.9% for the right stick. Higher values can lead to noticeable inconsistencies, potentially impacting aiming or movement in games.
Testing Methodology: It's crucial to note that this test is performed at partial stick deflection (~80%), using special physical limiters (clips). Testing at 100% deflection often hides asymmetries because the controller's output is clamped at the maximum value, artificially 'smoothing' the resulting shape. Our method reveals the true performance of the stick in the ranges most critical for gameplay. This precise approach was also utilized by Linus Tech Tips in their controller review.
For comparison, many budget gamepads show asymmetry levels above 30%, while high-end controllers typically stay below 10% for better uniformity.
Learn more about how different gamepads perform in the Stick Asymmetry test and how to conduct such a test in this article. You can learn how to test joystick asymmetry yourself from this video.
Circle Error
Circle Error evaluates how closely the stick’s movement follows a perfect circle. A high Circle Error means the path is more square-like, which can cause inconsistent speeds when moving diagonally—your character might move faster or slower than expected. The lower the percentage, the better, as it ensures smooth, uniform movement in all directions.
For the Machenike F1, the Circle Error is 0.3% for the left stick and 0.2% for the right stick. This is an excellent result, providing smooth, natural diagonal movement similar to premium controllers.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have Circle Errors above 12%, resulting in 'square' feeling sticks, while high-quality ones aim for under 8% for better smoothness.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Circle Error impacts performance.
Resolution (Stick Bitness)
Stick Bitness measures the precision of the joystick’s analog input, similar to bit depth in audio. Higher bitness means more distinct positions the stick can register, leading to smoother and more accurate control. Lower bitness can result in 'stepping' or less fluid movement, especially noticeable in slow, precise actions like aiming.
The Machenike F1 has 12.0 bits on both sticks.
Note: Recorded with an older version before True Bitness.
This corresponds to a measured Step Resolution of 0.00050 on the left stick and 0.00050 on the right, with about 2,000 SFC on the left stick and 2,000 SFC on the right.
For comparison, many budget gamepads have around 8 bits, while premium ones often exceed 10 bits for superior accuracy.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Stick Bitness affects control. It is important to note that the video specifies the resolution of the stick, not the bit depth; the higher the bit depth, the higher the resolution.
Center Error (Stick Centering)
Center Error (also referred to as Stick Centering) measures how accurately the joystick returns to its neutral (center) position after you release it. A low Center Error prevents stick drift—a common issue where your character or camera moves slightly in a game, even when you're not touching the stick. The lower the percentage, the better the centering, and the less likely you are to experience drift.
For the Machenike F1, the Center Error is 2.8% for the left joystick and 0.4% for the right stick. This is a moderate result. The centering is acceptable, but you might need a tiny deadzone in some sensitive games to avoid drift.
This test methodology intentionally employs a more rigorous approach by implementing small-angle deflection and release, which produces the most challenging conditions for stick re-centering. This technique differs from the conventional maximum-deflection method where the stick is pulled to its full range and released, as small-angle deflection better simulates the micro-adjustments typically executed during actual gameplay scenarios, providing more representative data on potential stick drift occurrence during normal use.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Center Error works.
Cardinal Snapping
Cardinal Snapping (sometimes referred to as Axis Magnet) is a form of stick processing where the controller's output artificially 'snaps' or clings to the cardinal (horizontal and vertical) axes when the stick passes close to them. While this can make pure horizontal or vertical movements feel perfectly straight, it distorts the natural movement path and makes diagonal aiming or fine steering less predictable.
The Machenike F1 shows no Cardinal Snapping. This means the stick does not artificially cling to the horizontal or vertical axes, preserving your real movement path for consistent aiming and natural analog control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Cardinal Snapping affects stick behavior.
Disclaimer
We tested the Machenike F1 gamepad using a single unit, so keep in mind that other units of this model might perform slightly better or worse. In most cases, these differences are minor and shouldn’t affect your experience significantly. The results were obtained with the Stick Tracer program, and some values might vary if you use different software or testing methods.
Testing conditions, such as the gamepad’s firmware version (FW: 1.28) or connection type, can also influence the results. If you have this gamepad, we’d love for you to share your own test results! This will help us build a more comprehensive picture of the Machenike F1’s performance across different units.
Full test results can be viewed on the test page.
Stick test results for Machenike F1 gamepad, by Геймпад Бар
Comment: The test was in 1000 Hertz and 8bit mode, but the controller also works in 8000 hertz and 12 bits, but there is no difference in response.
Errors Panel
Inner Deadzone
The Inner Deadzone is the area around the center of the stick where small movements are not registered. This helps prevent stick drift or accidental inputs, but if the deadzone is too large, it can make aiming less precise, especially in games requiring fine control. We evaluate the Inner Deadzone based on how much you need to move the stick before it responds—the less movement required, the better.
The Machenike F1 has no Inner Deadzone. The stick responds immediately to even the slightest movement, which is excellent for aiming accuracy and micro-control. This makes it a great choice for precision-heavy games like first-person shooters (e.g., Valorant or Apex Legends).
For comparison, many budget gamepads often have a moderate to large Inner Deadzone, while premium controllers typically aim for a slight or no deadzone for better precision.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Inner Deadzone works.
Outer Deadzone
The Outer Deadzone is the area near the edge of the stick’s range where further movement isn’t registered. This can make the stick feel less responsive at full tilt, affecting actions like quick turns or maximum speed in games. We evaluate the Outer Deadzone based on how much 'lost' range there is—the smaller the deadzone, the better, as it allows full use of the stick’s range for more precise control.
The Machenike F1 has a large Outer Deadzone (2.0 mm). There’s a portion of the stick’s range that isn’t registered, but it’s minimal and unlikely to affect gameplay noticeably.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have moderate to large Outer Deadzones, while premium controllers strive for minimal or no deadzone to maximize control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how the Outer Deadzone works.
Stick Asymmetry
Stick Asymmetry measures the consistency of the joystick's response across different directions. Ideally, if you physically deflect the stick by 80% from the center, the software should report an 80% deflection regardless of the direction. A high asymmetry score indicates a problem where for the same physical movement, the reported coordinates are inconsistent—for example, 60% in one direction and 90% in another. This creates an uneven, often 'egg-shaped,' response zone, which negatively impacts aiming and control predictability.
For the Machenike F1, the Stick Asymmetry is 4.1% for the left stick and 8.7% for the right stick. Higher values can lead to noticeable inconsistencies, potentially impacting aiming or movement in games.
Testing Methodology: It's crucial to note that this test is performed at partial stick deflection (~80%), using special physical limiters (clips). Testing at 100% deflection often hides asymmetries because the controller's output is clamped at the maximum value, artificially 'smoothing' the resulting shape. Our method reveals the true performance of the stick in the ranges most critical for gameplay. This precise approach was also utilized by Linus Tech Tips in their controller review.
For comparison, many budget gamepads show asymmetry levels above 30%, while high-end controllers typically stay below 10% for better uniformity.
Learn more about how different gamepads perform in the Stick Asymmetry test and how to conduct such a test in this article. You can learn how to test joystick asymmetry yourself from this video.
Circle Error
Circle Error evaluates how closely the stick’s movement follows a perfect circle. A high Circle Error means the path is more square-like, which can cause inconsistent speeds when moving diagonally—your character might move faster or slower than expected. The lower the percentage, the better, as it ensures smooth, uniform movement in all directions.
For the Machenike F1, the Circle Error is 8.3% for the left stick and 8.3% for the right stick. This is a moderate result. Diagonal movement is mostly smooth, but minor speed variations or minor square-like behavior might be felt in some situations.
For comparison, budget gamepads often have Circle Errors above 12%, resulting in 'square' feeling sticks, while high-quality ones aim for under 8% for better smoothness.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Circle Error impacts performance.
Resolution (Stick Bitness)
Stick Bitness measures the precision of the joystick’s analog input, similar to bit depth in audio. Higher bitness means more distinct positions the stick can register, leading to smoother and more accurate control. Lower bitness can result in 'stepping' or less fluid movement, especially noticeable in slow, precise actions like aiming.
The Machenike F1 has 8.0 bits on both sticks.
Note: Recorded with an older version before True Bitness.
This corresponds to a measured Step Resolution of 0.00780 on the left stick and 0.00780 on the right, with about 128 SFC on the left stick and 128 SFC on the right.
For comparison, many budget gamepads have around 8 bits, while premium ones often exceed 10 bits for superior accuracy.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Stick Bitness affects control. It is important to note that the video specifies the resolution of the stick, not the bit depth; the higher the bit depth, the higher the resolution.
Center Error (Stick Centering)
Center Error (also referred to as Stick Centering) measures how accurately the joystick returns to its neutral (center) position after you release it. A low Center Error prevents stick drift—a common issue where your character or camera moves slightly in a game, even when you're not touching the stick. The lower the percentage, the better the centering, and the less likely you are to experience drift.
For the Machenike F1, the Center Error is 0.1% for the left joystick and 1.5% for the right stick. This is a moderate result. The centering is acceptable, but you might need a tiny deadzone in some sensitive games to avoid drift.
This test methodology intentionally employs a more rigorous approach by implementing small-angle deflection and release, which produces the most challenging conditions for stick re-centering. This technique differs from the conventional maximum-deflection method where the stick is pulled to its full range and released, as small-angle deflection better simulates the micro-adjustments typically executed during actual gameplay scenarios, providing more representative data on potential stick drift occurrence during normal use.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Center Error works.
Cardinal Snapping
Cardinal Snapping (sometimes referred to as Axis Magnet) is a form of stick processing where the controller's output artificially 'snaps' or clings to the cardinal (horizontal and vertical) axes when the stick passes close to them. While this can make pure horizontal or vertical movements feel perfectly straight, it distorts the natural movement path and makes diagonal aiming or fine steering less predictable.
The Machenike F1 shows no Cardinal Snapping. This means the stick does not artificially cling to the horizontal or vertical axes, preserving your real movement path for consistent aiming and natural analog control.
Want to learn more? Check out our video explanation of how Cardinal Snapping affects stick behavior.
Disclaimer
We tested the Machenike F1 gamepad using a single unit, so keep in mind that other units of this model might perform slightly better or worse. In most cases, these differences are minor and shouldn’t affect your experience significantly. The results were obtained with the Stick Tracer program, and some values might vary if you use different software or testing methods.
Testing conditions, such as the gamepad’s firmware version (FW: 1.28) or connection type, can also influence the results. If you have this gamepad, we’d love for you to share your own test results! This will help us build a more comprehensive picture of the Machenike F1’s performance across different units.
Full test results can be viewed on the test page.
Stick Movement Linearity Test
Reviews of Machenike F1
Add your own review
Machenike F1 - The INVINCIBLE
In this video, we take a look at the new Machenike F1 controller. See if it really lives up to its hype. Representing the fast latency in the current state and brings unique key features to FPS players.
Machenike F1 specifications
Internal
External
Features
Connection
Software
Platforms
User comments
this controller has SOOOO MUCH POTENTIAL to be the best controller on the market... it's plagued by the WORST Software I've ever used.
More words please.
What is the price of this gamepad?
The gamepad has not been officially announced yet, so we should wait a couple of days to see the price.
@Mark Clark I've seen this controller on Aliexpress for $150, but I'm guessing other sources will appear soon and the price will be lower. I really want a controller with symmetrical sticks.
@Mark Clark This controller has been available in China for some time now, but its performance hasn't been great.
115 usd by https://www.voptronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Machenike+F1+Controller but honestly is better waiting for the new updated version.
Umm is the Machenike F1 really 1ms of response time if so how did they even manage that it seems like a total marketing gimmick.
I think they finally mastered the GPDL tester, or even the unlicensed P82.
@John Punch I'm certain they're using the P82 tester without a license because their announced latency matches Prometheus 82's latency perfectly.
Guys, my review is on YouTube, it's in the original Russian, but you can watch the neural translation there. Delays are really that low. tested on p82
I found a pretty good review of it. If you're interested, here's the link https://youtu.be/nrUAG8EcEVo
You cant play on anything lower than 12 bit resolution because the jitter spikes to .4 and you also cant play wireless because it randomly bugs out mid game and just looks left forever or something. Also on wireless you cant do anything other than 8k bc jitter goes to .4. when wired you can do 4k hz 12bit and 8k hz 12 bit etc. On the gamesir 8k hz you can play 8khz on 8bit and the jitter stays low like .09 but on this controller if you do 8k hz 8bit the jitter goes through the roof to .45
I thought jitters are reduced with the bits. Am I wrong?
@Mass Controller Buyer jitter is inconsistency in the polling, so a gamesir 8k can do high bit or low bit and keep jitter super low, but if a controller has a polling rate that it cant handle properly then it will have inconsistent polling
@Fabian Benavides Thank you
This controllers software is so bad, it never saves configs properly and it often gets locked at 1k hz randomly. I found the fix you have to unplug the cable and then hold LS amd plug it back in. Other than the trash software the controller is pretty good. Not really tho lots of drift and re centering and recalibrating is a pain bc it rarely saves. The lb and rb are mushy as f, I can barely tell im clicking it. But I when it works I beam hard in apex. if they fix the software and also fix the buttons and make the centering of the sticks better that would be cool. the sticks also dont return to center properly, you have to re calibrate sensor every now and then. It reverts to 1k hz randomly so you might play a whole session on 1k hz if you are not vigilant. I still use it tho but damn this is like owning a Mclaren that always breaks down. I like the g7 8k hz better but the sticks on the machineke have very low tension so it helps beam in apex. Will be getting void genesis and zd later
does anybody know why mine is hard capped xinput wired at 1000hz on the newest firmware 1.34
its a pain but you have to unplug it and hold LS and then plug the cable back in while holding it. It will bug out many more times you just have to keep doing it lol.
Machenike F1 finally release a new Mix driver version but is unable to update manually the firmware v1.28 to v1.34
Having now owned this controller for about a month i can say the following It feels of very high quality, sticks, buttons and bumpers. However i feel like it is miss-reporting its true Hz. Attempted to play Elden ring today and noticed that there is a slight delay on the ABXY buttons (unsure about the rest) i tested both wireless and wired, and there was a pretty significant difference in reaction time between this and just a regular old Xbox Series controller. Not sure if i just have a bad unit or if its something that can fixed via future software P.S (My controller also has this weird speed up once you hit a certain deadzone, tested in both COD and Battlefield 6, and yes i ensured there is no such feature enabled via their APP.) And My sticks require significant amount of force to be pressed in when the stick is upwards. Overall great feeling controller with some flaws Wouldnt recommend it, unless you have money to splurge
Adding on to this It can also have the tendency to not register button inputs.
How's the dpad on the Machenike F1 controller?
Considering the Tegenaria Lite 2 is already a solid option, is it worth upgrading to the Machenike F1 for a performance boost, or should I wait for more user feedback and testing to confirm its reliability?
I would prefer to wait for verified tests before making a decision. It's too early to conclude whether the Machenike F1 provides a worthwhile performance boost over the Tegenaria Lite 2.
Could be the ultimate claw controller, fingers crossed for a comfy gaming experience.
I'm curious, why is this Machenike F1 controller only available on some obscure websites? Is it a brand new release or just a niche product?
The gamepad has not been officially released yet, we need to wait until March.
@Leo Fisher This controller has been available in China for some time now, but its performance hasn't been great.
Tried this controller on Halo MCC & it was completely unusable. Ran through all the various settings in the app & could not get the aim on the controller to work properly. Genuinely one of the worst feeling controllers as far as in game aim goes.
If this ever gets down to 60 bucks, and offer a black option I'll seriously consider it. Only having bluetooth in Switch mode would be quite dissapointing though.
Compared to the Dualsense Edge, how does the Machenike F1 stack up in terms of build quality and overall feel?
stick with the dualsense edge. dont waste ur time with this one.
Does this not have Bluetooth mode? Why is there no Bluetooth mode in the numbers? Or is the BT mode the same as the Switch mode?
My controllers arrived with FW 1.28 and the Mix Driver app says no update available. How could i update to the firmware tested in the results?
Currently, Mix Driver is glitching and constantly misidentifying the current firmware version of the gamepad. For example, one version of Mix Driver says that my gamepad is version 1.28, while a newer version says it is 1.40.
I'd like to add there are 2 more programmable buttons on the controller, Labeled ML and MR, they are on both side of the (touchpad), the touchpad is just for looks and does not function. They function as additional buttons where you can map anything to them, you can also add keyboard and mouse inputs to all buttons along with macros to each button.
I'm curious if this Machenike F1 can match the low latency of the new Gulikit controllers, which I've been hearing great things about.
I bought this controller and ran some tests, but it seems that the default settings include a fairly large outer dead zone. Since the P82 test results are affected by factors like the size of the outer dead zone and the stick tension, it's not unreasonable for the measurements to turn out like this depending on the configuration. However, I don't think it's appropriate to use data measured with an extreme 60% outer dead zone setting for comparison.
Also, when I reset the device through the software, the dead zone values returned to normal, which suggests that extreme values might have been manually set during manufacturing.
@sazanka Thank you, this is valuable information. I will definitely test everything in the best possible way to get the most accurate data. In addition, by the time I receive the gamepad, I will most likely have finished developing an improved stick tester that can take the dead zone into account.
Thank you to everyone who closed fundraiser, I'm eagerly waiting for the review.
If the latency of the sticks is really that low, then I will definitely have to improve certain testing algorithms to obtain the most realistic test data possible. It's good that I'm working on this right now.
@Геймпад Бар Please tell me, are the grips on the gamepad made of plastic or rubber?
I'm trying to wrap my head around these numbers, 8000 poling rate not really affecting latency compared to 2000, that's just wild. I mean, shouldn't it be a no brainer that more polling is better?
Higher polling rate often makes things worse. It's unnecessary and requires more performance from pc and gamepad chip